When to prune treesDeciduous treesDeciduous trees (ones that lose their leaves in winter) are usually pruned in autumn and winter. In some cases, for example with magnolias and walnuts, pruning is best done in late summer, as healing is quicker.Trees such as Prunus sp, which are prone to are best pruned from April to July when the disease spores are not on the wind, and the tree sap is rising rather than falling (which pushes out infection rather than drawing it in).Some trees can sap if pruned in late winter and early spring. Although seldom fatal, this is unsightly and can weaken the tree. Birches and walnuts often bleed if pruned at the wrong time. Summer pruning can be useful to check over-vigorous growth, for example in suckering species of Populus, or restricted forms of fruit such as espalier apples. This pruning is generally light, and is carried out late enough not to promote new growth. Similarly, healthy trees will generally tolerate minor pruning in the summer months, for example, corrective pruning to raise hanging branches, or removing weak growth, which can be easier to assess in full leaf. Evergreen treesEvergreens seldom need pruning, although dead and diseased branches can be removed in late summer.

How to prune treesPrior to undertaking any work, it is essential to ascertain if a (TPO) is in place or if the tree is in a Conservation Area. Big brain academy theme. If either is the case, seek permission from your local council before beginning work. Potentially dangerous limbs can, in theory, be removed without permission but the penalties for breaching the legislations, inadvertently or not, can be severe.Safety is of prime importance when working with trees, so make an honest appraisal of your capabilities, assess the area in which any branches may fall, and erect warning signs or barricades if necessary before beginning. If in any doubt engage a.Take a step back and decide what needs to be done to produce a balanced, attractive tree. Work with the natural habit of the tree to shorten or remove branches.

How to prune trees. Prior to undertaking any work, it is essential to ascertain if a Tree Preservation Order (TPO) is in place or if the tree is in a Conservation Area.If either is the case, seek permission from your local council before beginning work.

Going against the tree’s natural habit produces ungainly trees that lack grace.Always start by removing damaged, dead, diseased shoots, followed by weak, lax or rubbing growth.When pruning out disease, clean you pruning tools with disinfectant between cuts. Minimise disease spread by pruning in dry weather, bagging up material and disposing. Only stack healthy logs as animal habitats. How to remove tree branches and limbs.

Wear protective gloves and, if necessary, eye and head protection. When cutting a stem, cut just above a healthy bud, pair of buds or side shoot. Where possible, cut to an outward-facing bud or branch to avoid congestion and rubbing of branches. Make your cut 0.5cm ( ¼in) above the bud. Beware cutting too close, as this can induce death of the bud. Beware cutting too far from the bud, as this can result in dieback of the stub, and entry of rots and other infections.

When removing larger limbs, make an undercut first about 20-30cm (8in-1ft) from the trunk, and follow this with an overcut. This will prevent the bark tearing, leaving a clean stub when the branch is severed.

Then remove the stub, first making a small undercut just outside the branch collar (the slight swelling where the branch joins the trunk), followed by an overcut to meet the undercut, angling the cut away from the trunk to produce a slope that sheds rain. Avoid cutting flush to the trunk as the collar is the tree’s natural protective zone where healing takes place.

There is no need to use wound paints, as they are not thought to contribute to healing or prevent disease. The exception is plums and cherries ( Prunus sp), where wound paint may be used to exclude sporesIf pruning cuts sap, don’t bandage or bind the cut, as attempts to stem the bleeding are likely to be unsuccessful and may impede rather than aid healing.

Nicely healed (and healing) pruning wounds.If you’re trimming heavy tree limbs, you have to be extra careful not to damage the bark or interfere with the tree’s natural healing response. Doing it right is actually no more difficult than doing it wrong, particularly if you think ahead to how much work it would take to remove a dead tree!Here’s how to cut large tree limbs in your yard in three simple steps.Poorly healed wound due to an improper pruning cut. How Trees HealThe truth is, trees don’t actually heal like we do. When you cut off a tree branch, the tree forms a special callous tissue (like a scar) that covers over the wound to keep out disease and decay. That scarred part of the tree will be there forever, sealed off so that the rest of the tree can keep growing. It’s very important to prune trees correctly so that we don’t interfere with this process – incorrect pruning will leave the tree weak and vulnerable to disease.In the top photo, you can see the evidence of several large pruning cuts.

The bumps show well healed pruning scars, most of them completely covered over. The “donut” shaped scar is normal, too. The callous tissue grows from the outside edges toward the center, so it’s still in the process of sealing over.Take the time to do it right. How to Cut a Tree LimbProper pruning of large tree limbs involves three cuts:. Cut #1, Notch Cut: Cut a small notch in the bottom of the limb, 2-3 feet away from the trunk, and about a quarter of the way through.

This notch will keep the bark from splitting when you make the next cut. Cut #3, Final Cut: This is the one that matters!

Your final cut should be right where the branch collar (that swollen bump) transitions to smooth branch bark. Follow the slant of the branch collar.

If you can’t fit your saw into the crotch at the right angle, then cut it from the bottom up.Common Tree Trimming Mistakes. Cutting the Branch Too Short: We used to think that branches should be cut off flush with the trunk – boy, were we ever wrong! The branch collar is responsible for forming the scar tissue. If you cut into the branch collar, the tree will have a very hard time recovering. When you see rotten holes in tree trunks, or seeping wounds, you’re looking at the aftermath of cutting off the branch collar. Good info on making the actual cut.

And, the article is right to say that trees don’t actually heal; they seal. But the wound or resulting decay will stay there forever, likely getting worse with time – tree species and location play a large role in how much decay and how fast. What is not covered here is which branches to trim and why. Of course, that can be complex.

Assuming you have a low branch that rubs on the roof or your vehicle, follow the above instructions. Otherwise, it is desirable to leave as many leaves on the tree as possible because that is where the food is made through photosynthesis. Of course, there are some branches that will need to be pruned from trees in urban environments. Why don’t trees in the forest need to be pruned?

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Trees in their natural environment grow differently due to the available light and phototropism (picture a flower in the kitchen window). What we are looking for is a strong central leader and good branch connections and spacing. The most important reason for pruning urban trees is to eliminate or reduce competing leaders by removal or reduction cuts. And if we know that a limb is a temporary branch, we also know that it will be removed one day, so it is a good idea to keep the diameter of that limb small so that the future wound from removal is also small. If in doubt, call a Certified Arborist.CHRIS FRANCIS.

ISA Certified Arborist. Alabama State Licensed:– Tree Surgeon– Landscape Designer– Landscape Contractor– Pest Control SupervisorChris Francis Landscapes. Larry,I’m not really following. The doughnut hole could be formed by woundwood rolling in.

If that is the case, it should soon cover the entire wound. If there is dead wood beyond that woundwood, you can prune it out to allow the woundwood to completely close over the wound. Be careful not to cut into the branch collar or woundwood in the process. If someone has already cut into the branch collar, there really is not anything that can be done. If the tree has good vigor, it can eventually form woundwood over the cut, but it will be a larger wound, cut into the trunk tissue, and it will not have the “right stuff” if the branch collar has been cut off (as in a large flush cut).CHRIS FRANCIS. ISA Certified Arborist.

Alabama State Licensed:– Tree Surgeon– Landscape Designer– Landscape Contractor– Pest Control Supervisor. Certified Landscape ProfessionalChris Francis Landscapes & Tree Care. Sounds like they “topped” your tree. The new growth will be succulent and vigorous. Leave them there. Let them grow. Then, select which ones to keep.

You will need to contact a Certified Arborist in your area to either consult with you or perform the correctional pruning. You will have to balance out letting the tree put on enough green to keep it alive with removing enough branches to keep it structurally sound.CHRIS FRANCIS. ISA Certified Arborist. Alabama State Licensed:– Tree Surgeon– Landscape Designer– Landscape Contractor– Pest Control Supervisor. Certified Landscape Professional.

AUFA Certified Urban ForesterChris Francis Tree Care. Appreciate all the info. My tree was damaged when a company came through to put a lead line out to the sewer and dug up a lot of my root system.

Since then, about 60% of the limbs are almost completely dead, to the point of cracking down the middle of the limb. The rest tho is sprouting new limbs up the base of the remaining live limbs, and at the base of the trunk. For the first few years after, it would sprout its flowers 2 months earlier than usual, and then drop it’s leaves.

Now it is closer to the time it used to sprout flowers, but I’m not sure when to trim it and if I should put wound seal on and if I should cut the newer trunk base branches off as well? My wife wants me to cut the whole thing down. It’s such a beautiful dogwood, I hate to do that but I know it will never look the same again. 10 years ago during an ice storm, my really old (60 years old?) silver maple lost a huge, huge branch. The city came to make the cut clean. It started to heal, having the healing tissue make the donut scar, and then it stopped.

Now I still have a huge hole where the branch once was and it seems that the tree is hollow, but in actual fact, the leaves are lush and it doesn’t look at all like it will die. It must be atlas 50 feet tall if not more.My question is, why did the scar tissue stop growing and will my tree die?

Sometime squirrels hide paper and other junk in the hole. Should I clean it out regularly? Topping, tipping and lacing is always bad.

When you remove the end of a branch or a limb, it forces inner branches to grow and it stimulates suckers which are inherently weak and will eventually snap off when they get too heavy. It also changes the natural shape and structure of the tree.The only reason to cut a healthy limb is when it interferes with other things such as traffic, high voltage wires, buildings, or sometimes other limbs, in which case it should be removed entirely using the techniques shown above.Sometimes people complain that a tree blocks their view or their signage. In those cases it is often better to cut the lower limbs so that the mass of the tree can grow above the view or signage.Here In San Diego we have hundreds of so-called tree services that have convinced homeowners, businesses and even governments to let them permanently ruin healthy trees by needlessly lopping off limbs. (They should be put out of business.)A properly pruned tree will not look as though it has ever been pruned, and most pruning can be done with a handsaw. On those occasions when I prune trees, I give a great deal of thought before making a cut and if I have any doubt, I wait a year or two and then re-evaluate. Not only does this improve my work, but it’s better for the tree to have amputations spread out over several seasons. I have a large cottonwood tree in my front yard and the ground below it simply would keep anything alive.

I couldn’t figure it out for the longest time until I noticed a large amount of shade the tree was creating on a particularly sunny day. I read from a few places that you could “lace a tree”. I wasn’t even aware this was a thing and then I found this blog (which was super helpful) in helping me understand what it meant and the possible benefits. I got the tree laced and have not had a problem with grass growing under the tree. Thanks for the detailed blog and the great instructional pictures!

My issue is a tree in my yard that grows up into the power lines by the street. Only 1/3 of the tree gets near the lines but our local power company sends someone out to “trim” the tree. They always just cut that same side and the other sides are now way to long and it looks like the tree is way to heavy on 2 sides. I’m afraid it’s going to crack it down the middle because the tree is really 2 trees that have grown together over time.

Could that happen? Can I request the power company to trim and balance the weight of the other part of the tree? Any response would be appreciated. The neighbor has a large mulberry tree in their yard with many branches hanging over in my yard, two of which have split and fallen in my yard, one time on my house and one time on my fence. One, we took care of and the other they had cut down.

Two days ago a third one fell onto my patio/picnic table/umbrella and part of my pool. Neither of us want to claim it on our ins as we have $1,000 deduct. We believe that when their branch fell a few wks ago and they had it cut, it weakened the rest of the branches and caused this one to fall. They DO NOT BELIEVE that this is the case. Could that be possible? And WHO is responsible for taking care of this?

We have repeatedly asked them to trim their entire tree but they just look at me like I am crazy. Is this my respons. Since the branches are mostly hanging in my yard?